jajacek

W aluminiowej ramie PressFit bardzo rzadko jest problemem. Problemy z PressFitem wynikają z kiepskiej tolerancji wykonania. I zwykle dotyczą ram karbonowych. Linki na zewnątrz mają tę zaletę że łatwiej je serwisować a przypadku pancerza przerzutki ograniczają kłopoty z jej regulacją wynikające z pancerza poprowadzonego w ramie, który ma problem ze zginaniem się jak trzeba. Aluminiowy rower MTB jest zawsze rowerem budżetowym. Więc pisanie o jakiejś "klasie" jest tu nieuzasadnione.

Tak swoją drogą kolega z topowego serwisu rowerowego mi mówił że zaawansowani użytkownicy ostatnio często wymieniają sztywne osie z aluminiowych na stalowe. Niestety gwinty się wyrabiają w aluminiowych jak ktoś zmienia często koła albo demontuje do transportu. Więc dobrze żeby ta oś pod bagażnik nie była z alu.

@Szwedacz A jakie masz te wewnętrzne rogi? Ostatnio chodzą mi takie po głowie. Pokaż proszę kokpit.

Akurat Epic HT Comp posiadam ? Co prawda w starszej wersji. Wersja 2022 widzę ma Rebę, SRAM GX i hamulce SRAM Level TL. Epic Hardtail Comp Miałem kiedyś Speca Chisel Expert 2018 w takiej konfiguracji sprzętowej. Reba była pancerna i bezproblemowa. SRAM GX działał bez zarzutów ale nie był to demon prędkości ? SRAM Level TL to takie trochę lepsze spowalniacze. Ale jak jeździłem na nich ważyłem ponad 90 kg. Więc Twoje 69 kg wraz z bagażem powinny zatrzymać bez problemu. Ku mojemu zdziwieniu rama w tej wersji jest z karbonu 11R czyli bardzo lekkiego, wyścigowego i stosunkowo wycieniowanego. Ale ramy Comp zawsze były dość pancerne. Moja z karbonu 10R waży 1200 gramów. Nie wiem ile ta. DeepSeek podpowiada 1000 do 1100 gramów w zależności od rozmiaru. Zyskujesz nowocześniejszą ramę z nowocześniejszą geo i możliwość założenia opon 2,4 cala. Plus bezproblemowy suport BSA. Ja mam PF ale Spec to trochę inna jakość wykonania niż większość firm więc mam zero problemu z nim od lat. Koła oblecą, aczkolwiek zmienił się dostawca piasta. Kiedyś była Formula, taka sobie, teraz jest inna firma, której nie znam. Epic będzie bardziej usportowiony, Cube bardziej zrelaksowany. Stosunek jakości do ceny jest zdecydowanie na korzyść Cube. Rozumiem potrzebę jazdy na lekko. To chyba łączy szosowców że nie lubią zamulać i liczą co ile waży ? Kupiłem sakwy Ortlieb, pojechałem z nimi raz i skończyły do wożenia rzeczy na kajaku ? Teraz mam torbę podsiodłową 13l Rhinowalk, frame bag i coś tam jeszcze i na 3 dni mi wystarczy. Do moje torby sprzedają usztywniający stelaż. Muszę dokupić żeby się nie majtała. Spec też sprzedawał podobne rozwiązanie. Gdzieś w necie są porady bikepackingowe gościa co jeździ z plecakiem na bagażniku. Odpowiednio przymocowanym. Wydawał mi się to dobry pomysł. Jeździłem kiedyś z lemondką w rowerze typu cross. Jak byłem w formie to wyciągnąłem średnią 30 na 160 km. Więc prędkościowo na pewno pomaga.

Mój kumple sakwowiec mówi że jednak najlepszy jest do takich zastosowań rekreacyjny MTB. Na zdjęciu w Maroku.

Kupowanie używanych rowerów na hydraulice to zawsze jest loteria. Dwa razy wtopiłem, dopiero trzeci zakup był bezproblemowy. Więc nowy to nowy. Na tej ramie Cube jeździłem. Potężna dolna rura, które może robić za błotnik. Wysoki stack więc komfortowa pozycja. To jest taki rekreacyjny MTB w karbonie pomiędzy rekreacją a race. Jechało mi się świetnie. Jak ktoś potrzebuje geo poprawić to się ostatnio zorientowałem że łożyska sterowe można zmienić na kątowe. Do bikepackingu to raczej szersze obręcze. W Cube masz Newmen Evolution SL na obręczach 25 mm. Może nawet w razie czego byłbym skłonny się zamienić bo mam Newmen Evolution SL A.30 30 mm. Konfigurację roweru mam podobną jak ma Cube z tym samym amorem i na XT i jestem z niej zadowolony. Scalpel HT 3 2023 dobra rama o ekstremalnie wypłaszczonej główce, którą to koncepcję zarzucono w kolejnym roku i wrócono do mniej progresywnej geo. Rama wycieniowana 900 gramów. Mój kolega naprawiający karbon sugeruje że jak rower ma długo pożyć to rama powinna ważyć 1200 gramów. Nie wiem ile waży rama Cube. Dobry amor. Obręcze Crest znane ze swojej delikatności. Na pewno nie do bikepackingu. Korba Cannondale. No nie mam dobrych doświadczeń z ich popieprzonymi korbami a na forach też widzę że prawie wszyscy zmieniają. Gwarancja na ramę w Czechach. Podobno spychologia gwarancyjna. Więc ja bym jednak postawił przy tym zastosowaniu na wytrzymałość i solidność.

Jeśli to Reba RL z tłumikiem Motion Control to po zablokowaniu jest 5-10 mm ruchu. Jeśli więcej to wymaga serwisu zerowego. Ciśnienie trzeba dobrać do potrzeb. Tzw. SAG nie powinien przekraczać 25%. Jak jazda głównie po nawierzchniach utwardzonych to 15-20% Jeśli gumka poszła o tyle podczas jazdy po mieście to jest niedopompowany. Jeśli masz manetkę na goleni to powinno się jeździć w pozycji środkowej. Z manetką na goleni Reba ma 6 pozycji. Ja masz zdalną blokadę to masz tylko 2 pozycje. Otwarty na maks i zablokowany.

Przy 170 wzrostu rama 19 cali nie wchodzi IMO w grę. O ile mi wiadomo amortyzator X-Fusion działa na takiej zasadzie jak Suntour. Bez oleju w goleni z tłumikiem. Czyli jest gorszy od Markhora. Jeśli ktoś jeździ po płaskim lasku i po ścieżkach rowerowych to 10 przełożeń wystarczy. A części do takiego roweru tańsze więc niższy koszt utrzymania. Napęd 12-biegowy jest droższy bo droższe są kasety i łańcuchy a jeżdżąc na przekosach zwykle szybciej zarzyna się napęd. Wąskie obręcze w jeździe po ścieżkach czy parku raczej nie będą miały znaczenia. W terenie opona lepiej układa się na szerokiej obręczy. Ale fakt fakt faktem że obręcze 21 mm w rowerze MTB obecnie są uznawane za muzealne.

What about the debate of 30 mm rims vs 25 mm rims? Are 25 mm out? Considered obsolete? We are talking about use with Conti Race King 2.2 tires, Specialized Renegade and Fast Trak 2.35 tires and eventually similar XC tires from Schwalbe or Vittoria. The debate between 25 mm and 30 mm rims is an interesting one, especially in the context of modern XC and trail riding. While 25 mm rims are not necessarily obsolete, they have become less common as 30 mm rims have gained popularity due to their improved performance with wider tires. Let’s break down the pros and cons of each rim width and how they pair with the tires you mentioned (e.g., Continental Race King 2.2", Specialized Renegade 2.35", Fast Trak 2.35", and similar XC tires). 25 mm Rims: Pros: Lightweight: 25 mm rims are typically lighter than 30 mm rims, which can be an advantage for XC racing or climbing. Aerodynamics: Narrower rims are slightly more aerodynamic, which can matter in high-speed XC racing. Tire Profile: With narrower tires (e.g., 2.2"), 25 mm rims provide a more rounded tire profile, which can improve rolling efficiency on smooth terrain. Cons: Tire Support: Wider tires (e.g., 2.35") can feel less stable on 25 mm rims, especially at lower pressures. The tire may "bulge" more, reducing cornering grip and control. Durability: Narrower rims are less robust and may be more prone to damage on rough terrain. Compatibility: As tire widths have increased, 25 mm rims have become less ideal for modern XC and trail tires. 30 mm Rims: Pros: Tire Support: 30 mm rims provide better support for wider tires (e.g., 2.35"), creating a more stable and predictable tire profile. This improves cornering grip and control, especially at lower pressures. Durability: Wider rims are generally stronger and more resistant to impacts, making them better suited for technical terrain. Versatility: 30 mm rims work well with a wide range of tire widths, from 2.2" to 2.6", making them more future-proof. Tubeless Performance: Wider rims make it easier to achieve a good tubeless seal and allow for lower tire pressures without risking burping or losing the seal. Cons: Weight: 30 mm rims are slightly heavier than 25 mm rims, which can be a disadvantage for XC racing or climbing. Aerodynamics: Wider rims are less aerodynamic, though this is a minor concern for most riders. How They Pair with Your Tires: Continental Race King 2.2": Works well on both 25 mm and 30 mm rims. On 25 mm rims, it will have a more rounded profile for better rolling efficiency. On 30 mm rims, it will have a slightly squarer profile for better cornering grip. Specialized Renegade 2.35" and Fast Trak 2.35": These wider tires are better suited to 30 mm rims, which provide better support and stability. On 25 mm rims, they may feel less predictable, especially at lower pressures. Schwalbe or Vittoria XC Tires (e.g., Schwalbe Rocket Ron, Vittoria Barzo): Similar to the Specialized tires, these perform better on 30 mm rims, especially in wider sizes (2.35" or more). Are 25 mm Rims Obsolete? Not entirely obsolete, but they are becoming less common as tire widths have increased and riders prioritize versatility and control. 25 mm rims are still a good choice for: Pure XC racing with narrower tires (e.g., 2.0" to 2.2"). Riders who prioritize lightweight setups and rolling efficiency over technical performance. Which Rim Width Should You Choose? Choose 25 mm Rims if: You primarily ride smooth XC trails and prioritize lightweight performance. You use narrower tires (e.g., 2.2") and want a more rounded tire profile for better rolling efficiency. Choose 30 mm Rims if: You ride technical terrain with roots, rocks, or loose surfaces. You use wider tires (e.g., 2.35") and want better support, stability, and cornering grip. You want a more versatile setup that can handle a range of tire widths. Summary of Recommendations: Aspect 25 mm Rims 30 mm Rims Tire Support Less stable with wider tires (e.g., 2.35"). Better support for wider tires (e.g., 2.35"). Weight Lighter; better for XC racing. Slightly heavier; better for trail riding. Durability Less robust; more prone to damage. Stronger; better for technical terrain. Tubeless Performance Works well but less stable at low pressures. Easier to set up and more stable at low pressures. Tire Profile More rounded; better rolling efficiency. Slightly squarer; better cornering grip. Final Thoughts: For your test loop, which includes roots, sand, steep climbs, and rolling terrain, 30 mm rims are the better choice. They provide better support for wider tires (e.g., 2.35") and improve control and stability on technical sections. However, if you prioritize lightweight performance and ride mostly smooth terrain, 25 mm rims can still be a viable option.

Would you reconsider your first advice then and would you recommend short travel and lighter dropper post for my testing loop? Is 35 mm enough? I just installed Specialized Command Post with 35 mm of travel. Great choice with the Specialized Command Post! A 35 mm travel dropper is a lightweight and efficient option, and it can certainly be beneficial for your test loop, especially if you prioritize weight savings and XC efficiency over the full control of a longer-travel dropper. Let’s revisit the recommendations and see how the 35 mm dropper fits into your setup. Re-Evaluating for a 35 mm Dropper: Pros of a 35 mm Dropper for Your Loop: Weight Savings: The Command Post is lightweight, which helps maintain the efficiency and agility of your bike, especially on climbs and flat sections. Quick Adjustments: A 35 mm drop is enough to make small adjustments to your saddle height for steep climbs, technical sections, or quick descents. Improved Control: Even a small drop can help you shift your weight back on descents or forward on climbs, improving control and traction. Minimal Impact on Pedaling: The short travel ensures that the dropper doesn’t interfere with your pedaling efficiency, which is important for long rides. Limitations of a 35 mm Dropper: Less Flexibility on Technical Descents: A 35 mm drop may not be enough to fully lower the saddle for steep or technical descents, limiting your ability to shift your weight back. Reduced Confidence on Rough Terrain: On very technical sections (e.g., steep, rooty descents), a longer-travel dropper would provide more control and confidence. Partial Drop Usage: You may find yourself only using part of the 35 mm drop, as it’s not enough to fully clear the saddle for aggressive maneuvers. Is 35 mm Enough for Your Test Loop? For your test loop, which includes roots, sand, steep climbs, and rolling terrain, a 35 mm dropper can still be useful, but it depends on your riding style and priorities: If you prioritize efficiency and lightweight performance: The 35 mm dropper is a great choice. It allows you to make quick adjustments for steep climbs and short descents without adding significant weight or complexity. If you want maximum control on technical descents: A longer-travel dropper (100-125 mm) would be more beneficial, as it allows you to fully lower the saddle for steep or rough sections. How to Maximize the 35 mm Dropper: Use It for Steep Climbs: Lower the saddle slightly to shift your weight forward and keep the front wheel grounded. Quick Adjustments for Rolling Terrain: Use the dropper to fine-tune your saddle height as the terrain changes, improving efficiency and control. Partial Drops for Descents: Even a small drop can help you shift your weight back slightly for better control on descents. Combine with Body Positioning: Use proper body positioning (e.g., leaning back, bending elbows) to compensate for the limited drop on technical descents. When to Consider Upgrading to a Longer-Travel Dropper: If you find yourself wanting more control on steep or technical descents. If you start riding more aggressive terrain where a longer drop would be beneficial. If you’re willing to trade a bit of weight and efficiency for added versatility. Summary of Recommendations: Aspect 35 mm Dropper Longer-Travel Dropper (100-125 mm) Weight Lightweight; minimal impact on bike efficiency. Slightly heavier; may affect climbing efficiency. Control on Descents Limited by short travel; requires good body positioning. Full drop improves control and confidence on technical descents. Versatility Best for quick adjustments and moderate terrain. Better for aggressive terrain and steep descents. Ease of Use Simple and efficient; less adjustment needed. Requires more frequent use and adjustment. Final Thoughts: The Specialized Command Post with 35 mm travel is a great choice if you prioritize lightweight performance and efficiency for your test loop. It’s especially well-suited for steep climbs and rolling terrain, where quick adjustments can make a big difference. However, if you find yourself wanting more control on technical descents or rougher sections, you might consider upgrading to a longer-travel dropper in the future.

My bike has 27.2 diameter seatpost. In XCC and XCO races I don't seem to see any dropper posts with more travel than 50 mm. Am I wrong? You're absolutely correct! In XCC (Cross-Country Short Track) and XCO (Cross-Country Olympic) races, dropper posts are relatively rare, and when they are used, they typically have very short travel (30-50 mm). This is because XC racing prioritizes lightweight, efficient setups over the added control and versatility of longer-travel droppers. Let’s dive into why this is the case and how it relates to your 27.2 mm seatpost. Why Short-Travel Droppers in XC Racing? Weight Savings: XC races are won by seconds, so every gram counts. Short-travel droppers are lighter than longer-travel models. A 50 mm dropper adds minimal weight compared to a 125-150 mm dropper. Efficiency: XC courses often feature short, punchy climbs and descents. A short-travel dropper is sufficient for quick adjustments without sacrificing pedaling efficiency. Longer-travel droppers can feel sluggish on climbs due to their increased weight and bulk. Minimal Need for Droppers: XC courses are generally less technical than trail or enduro courses, so the benefits of a long-travel dropper are less pronounced. Many XC riders prefer to stay seated and power through technical sections rather than dropping the saddle. Frame Compatibility: Many XC bikes have 27.2 mm seatposts, which limit the availability of long-travel droppers. Most long-travel droppers are designed for larger diameters (30.9 mm or 31.6 mm). Dropper Post Options for 27.2 mm Seatposts: If you’re considering a dropper post for your bike with a 27.2 mm seatpost, here are some options, including short-travel models commonly used in XC racing: Short-Travel Droppers (30-50 mm): RockShox Reverb AXS (30-50 mm): Wireless operation for a clean setup. Lightweight and reliable. Fox Transfer SL (30-50 mm): Designed specifically for XC racing. Lightweight and low-profile. KS Lev Integra (30-50 mm): Affordable and reliable. Available in short travel for XC use. Longer-Travel Droppers (75-125 mm): PNW Components Loam Dropper (27.2 mm, 100-125 mm): Affordable and reliable. Offers more travel for trail-oriented riding. Brand-X Ascend (27.2 mm, 100-125 mm): Budget-friendly option with decent performance. Available in longer travel for trail use. OneUp V2 (27.2 mm, 90-120 mm): Lightweight and adjustable travel. Great for riders who want versatility. Should You Use a Dropper Post for Your Test Loop? Given the technical nature of your test loop (roots, sand, steep climbs, and rolling terrain), a longer-travel dropper (100-125 mm) would be more beneficial than a short-travel XC dropper. Here’s why: Improved Control: A longer-travel dropper allows you to fully lower the saddle for steep descents and technical sections, improving control and confidence. Versatility: You can adjust the saddle height to suit varying terrain, from steep climbs to rolling sections. Comfort: Lowering the saddle reduces strain on your body during descents, making the ride more enjoyable. Challenges with 27.2 mm Droppers: Limited Options: There are fewer long-travel droppers available for 27.2 mm seatposts compared to larger diameters. Weight and Bulk: Long-travel droppers for 27.2 mm seatposts tend to be heavier and bulkier than short-travel models. Recommendations for Your Bike: If You Want a Dropper for XC Racing: Go with a short-travel dropper (30-50 mm) like the RockShox Reverb AXS or Fox Transfer SL. These are lightweight and efficient, but they won’t provide as much control on technical descents. If You Want a Dropper for Your Test Loop: Choose a longer-travel dropper (100-125 mm) like the PNW Loam Dropper or Brand-X Ascend. These will give you the control and versatility you need for technical terrain. Summary of Recommendations: Use Case Dropper Travel Recommended Models XC Racing 30-50 mm RockShox Reverb AXS, Fox Transfer SL, KS Lev Integra Test Loop (Technical) 100-125 mm PNW Loam Dropper, Brand-X Ascend, OneUp V2

Regarding dropper post how much travel would you recommned for my testing loop? For your test loop, which includes a mix of flat sections, roots, sand, steep climbs, and rolling terrain, a dropper post can be a game-changer. It allows you to quickly lower your saddle for technical descents and steep sections, improving control and confidence, and then raise it back up for efficient pedaling on climbs and flats. Let’s break down how to choose the right dropper post travel for your needs. Factors to Consider: Rider Height and Inseam: Your height is 175 cm with an 84.5 cm inseam. This means you have relatively long legs for your height, which allows for more dropper post travel. Frame Geometry and Seat Tube Length: Your bike’s seat tube length and frame design will determine how much dropper travel you can fit. For a size Large (19") hardtail, you should have enough room for a dropper with 100-150 mm of travel. Terrain: Your loop includes technical sections (roots, sand, steep climbs), where a dropper post is most beneficial. More travel gives you greater flexibility to lower your saddle for descents and technical terrain. Riding Style: If you prioritize control and confidence on descents, opt for more travel. If you’re more focused on XC efficiency and don’t need as much drop, less travel may suffice. Recommended Dropper Travel: 100-125 mm: A good choice if you’re new to dropper posts or prioritize pedaling efficiency. This amount of travel is sufficient for most XC and light trail riding. 125-150 mm: Ideal for your loop, as it provides more flexibility for steep descents and technical sections while still being manageable for climbing and flats. Given your height, inseam, and the technical nature of your loop, I’d recommend a 125-150 mm dropper post. This range strikes a good balance between control on descents and efficiency on climbs. Dropper Post Options: Here are a few popular dropper posts in the 125-150 mm range: Fox Transfer Factory (125-150 mm): Lightweight, reliable, and smooth operation. Available in various travel lengths to suit your needs. RockShox Reverb AXS (125-150 mm): Wireless operation for a clean setup. Highly adjustable and reliable. OneUp V2 (120-150 mm): Affordable, lightweight, and adjustable travel. Easy to install and maintain. BikeYoke Revive (125-160 mm): Known for its durability and smooth performance. Excellent for technical terrain. Installation Considerations: Seat Tube Diameter: Ensure the dropper post matches your seat tube diameter (usually 30.9 mm or 31.6 mm for modern hardtails). Internal vs. External Routing: Check whether your frame supports internal routing for a cleaner setup. Saddle Height: Measure your current saddle height and ensure the dropper post can accommodate it when fully extended. How a Dropper Post Will Help on Your Loop: Steep Climbs: Lower the saddle slightly to shift your weight forward and keep the front wheel grounded. Technical Descents: Drop the saddle fully for better control and maneuverability over roots and sand. Rolling Terrain: Quickly adjust saddle height to optimize pedaling efficiency and control as the terrain changes. Summary of Recommendations: Aspect Recommendation Dropper Travel 125-150 mm Key Benefits Improves control on descents and technical terrain; enhances climbing efficiency. Top Options Fox Transfer, RockShox Reverb, OneUp V2, BikeYoke Revive Installation Match seat tube diameter; check routing options.

I just noticed a new trend with many hardtail bikes sold with 110 mm fork. Please elaborate. The trend of hardtail bikes being sold with 110 mm travel forks is part of a broader shift in the mountain bike industry toward more versatile and trail-capable hardtails. This trend reflects the evolving demands of riders who want a bike that can handle a wider range of terrain, from smooth XC trails to rougher, more technical descents. Let’s break down the reasons behind this trend and what it means for riders. Why 110 mm Forks Are Becoming Popular on Hardtails: 1. Versatility: A 110 mm fork strikes a balance between the efficiency of a traditional XC fork (100 mm) and the capability of a trail fork (120 mm). It allows hardtails to handle more technical terrain while still being efficient on climbs and smooth trails. 2. Modern Geometry: Hardtails are being designed with slacker head tube angles (67° to 68°) and longer reach measurements, which pair well with slightly longer travel forks. A 110 mm fork complements this geometry by providing more control and stability on descents without making the bike feel too sluggish on climbs. 3. Rider Demand: Many riders are using hardtails for more than just XC racing. They want bikes that can handle trail riding, bikepacking, and even light enduro-style terrain. A 110 mm fork makes hardtails more capable for these uses, appealing to a broader audience. 4. Fork Technology: Modern forks are lighter and more efficient than ever, so the performance penalty of adding 10 mm of travel is minimal. Features like lockouts and adjustable compression damping allow riders to tailor the fork’s performance to different terrain. 5. Tire Trends: Wider tires (2.4" to 2.6") are becoming standard on hardtails, and a 110 mm fork provides better compatibility and handling with these tires. Benefits of a 110 mm Fork on a Hardtail: Benefit Explanation Improved Descending More travel provides better control and comfort on rough descents. Versatility Handles a wider range of terrain, from XC to light trail riding. Modern Geometry Complements slacker head tube angles and longer reach for better handling. Tire Compatibility Works well with wider tires, improving traction and comfort. Efficiency Minimal weight penalty compared to 100 mm forks, especially with modern designs. Trade-Offs of a 110 mm Fork: Trade-Off Explanation Climbing Efficiency Slightly less efficient than a 100 mm fork, but the difference is minimal. Weight Slightly heavier than a 100 mm fork, but modern forks mitigate this. Cost May be more expensive than a 100 mm fork, depending on the model. Who Is This Trend For? Trail Riders: Riders who want a hardtail that can handle rougher terrain without sacrificing too much climbing efficiency. Bikepackers: The added comfort and control of a 110 mm fork is beneficial for long days on mixed terrain. XC Riders Exploring Trail Riding: Riders who primarily ride XC but want to dip their toes into more technical trails. Budget-Conscious Riders: A hardtail with a 110 mm fork is often more affordable than a full-suspension bike but offers similar trail capability. Examples of Hardtails with 110 mm Forks: Specialized Chisel: Designed for XC but often paired with a 110 mm fork for added versatility. Trek Roscoe: A trail-oriented hardtail that comes with a 120 mm fork but can easily accommodate a 110 mm fork. Canyon Stoic: A aggressive hardtail designed for trail riding, often paired with a 110-120 mm fork. Nukeproof Scout: A popular trail hardtail that can handle 110-120 mm forks for technical terrain. Should You Consider a 110 mm Fork? Yes, if: You ride a mix of XC and trail terrain. You want a more capable hardtail for technical descents. You value versatility over pure XC efficiency. No, if: You primarily ride smooth XC trails and prioritize lightweight, efficient performance. You’re on a tight budget and don’t want to invest in a higher-end fork. Conclusion: The trend of hardtails with 110 mm forks reflects the growing demand for versatile, trail-capable bikes that can handle a wide range of terrain. If you’re looking for a hardtail that’s efficient on climbs but also capable on descents, a 110 mm fork is a great option. However, if you’re a dedicated XC rider or prioritize lightweight performance, a 100 mm fork might still be the better choice.

Let's talk for a while about clutch in my rear derailleur. I have pretty new Shimano XT rear derailleur. When I put the clutch into ON positions there is a lot of tension on the chain and gear shifting seems to be negatively affected. What do studies show about effects of Shimano clutch efficiency? And what about durability? Does switching the clutch on affects durability of the drivetrain? Great question! The Shimano Shadow RD+ clutch in your XT rear derailleur is a valuable feature, but it can sometimes feel like it adds too much tension or affects shifting performance. Let’s break down how the clutch works, its benefits, and its impact on shifting and drivetrain durability. How the Shimano Clutch Works: The clutch is a mechanism inside the rear derailleur that increases tension on the derailleur cage, reducing chain slap and chain drop on rough terrain. When the clutch is ON, it adds resistance to the derailleur’s movement, keeping the chain taut. When the clutch is OFF, the derailleur operates like a traditional system, with less tension and smoother shifting. Benefits of the Clutch: Reduces Chain Slap: The clutch minimizes chain movement over rough terrain, protecting your frame and reducing noise. Prevents Chain Drop: By keeping the chain taut, the clutch reduces the risk of the chain falling off the chainring or cassette. Improves Chain Retention: This is especially useful on full-suspension bikes or when riding technical terrain. Challenges with the Clutch: Increased Shifting Effort: When the clutch is ON, the added tension can make shifting feel heavier or less precise, especially under load. Wear and Tear: The clutch mechanism itself can wear over time, particularly if it’s frequently engaged and disengaged. What Studies and User Experiences Show: 1. Efficiency of the Clutch: Studies and user reviews generally agree that the clutch is highly effective at reducing chain slap and preventing chain drops. However, the added tension can make shifting feel less smooth, especially in lower gears or under load. This is a trade-off for improved chain retention. 2. Durability of the Clutch: The clutch mechanism is designed to be durable, but it is a moving part and can wear over time. Frequent switching between ON and OFF can accelerate wear, as it puts stress on the clutch spring and internal components. Shimano recommends leaving the clutch ON for most riding conditions to maximize its benefits and minimize wear from frequent switching. 3. Impact on Drivetrain Durability: When the clutch is ON, the increased chain tension can reduce wear on the chain, cassette, and chainrings by minimizing chain movement and slap. However, if the clutch is too tight or not properly adjusted, it can increase wear on the derailleur’s pivot points and the clutch mechanism itself. Best Practices for Using the Clutch: 1. When to Use the Clutch: ON: Use the clutch when riding technical terrain, descending, or on rough trails where chain retention and reduced chain slap are important. OFF: Turn the clutch off when riding smooth terrain, climbing, or during races where quick, precise shifting is critical. 2. Adjusting the Clutch Tension: Some Shimano derailleurs allow you to adjust the clutch tension. If your shifting feels too heavy, try reducing the tension slightly. Refer to your derailleur’s manual for instructions on adjusting the clutch. 3. Maintenance: Regularly clean and lubricate the clutch mechanism to ensure smooth operation. Check for wear on the clutch spring and pivot points during routine maintenance. 4. Shifting Technique: When the clutch is ON, avoid shifting under heavy load. Ease off the pedals slightly when shifting to reduce stress on the drivetrain. Summary of Recommendations: Aspect Recommendation Clutch Usage Use ON for technical terrain and OFF for smooth terrain or racing. Clutch Tension Adjust tension if shifting feels too heavy. Maintenance Clean and lubricate the clutch regularly; check for wear. Shifting Technique Avoid shifting under heavy load when the clutch is ON. Durability Leave the clutch ON for most riding to minimize wear from frequent switching. Conclusion: The Shimano clutch is a highly effective feature for reducing chain slap and improving chain retention, but it can make shifting feel heavier. By using the clutch strategically (ON for technical terrain, OFF for smooth terrain) and maintaining it properly, you can maximize its benefits while minimizing any negative effects on shifting or durability. If shifting feels overly stiff, consider adjusting the clutch tension or improving your shifting technique.

My tire pressure when using Specialized Fast Trak Control 2.3 inch tires is within 1.2-1.3 bar for the front wheel and 1.3-1.4 bar for the rear wheel. the tread on the tires is a bit worned out. Current winter conditions are around 0 to +5 Celsius so the ground is pretty hard. I have new Continental Race King tires I could eventually use but they don't seem to have much bite. And older Specialied Purgatory Control tire which is going to impact my speed negatively. Please remember that maximum clearance in my bike is 2.35 inch. Thanks for the additional details! Let’s work with what you have and optimize your setup for the current winter conditions (0 to +5°C, hard ground) and your specific challenges (traction on steep climbs, front wheel lifting). Here’s a tailored plan: Current Setup Analysis: Tires: Specialized Fast Trak Control 2.3" (worn tread). Pressure: 1.2-1.3 bar (front), 1.3-1.4 bar (rear). Conditions: Hard ground, cold temperatures. Constraints: Maximum tire clearance is 2.35". Key Issues: Worn Tread: The Fast Trak tires are losing grip due to worn tread, which is especially problematic on hard, cold ground and steep climbs. Tire Options: Continental Race King: Fast-rolling but lacks bite for technical terrain. Specialized Purgatory Control: Good grip but slower, which isn’t ideal for your long rides. Recommendations: 1. Tire Choice: Option 1: Replace Fast Trak Tires Since the Fast Trak tires are worn, replacing them with a fresh set is the best option. Look for tires with a similar balance of speed and grip, such as: Specialized Fast Trak Control 2.3" (new): A fresh set will restore grip without sacrificing too much speed. Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.25" (Addix Speedgrip compound): Lightweight and fast-rolling with decent grip for hardpack and roots. Maxxis Ikon 2.35" (EXO/TR): A good balance of speed and traction for XC and light trail use. Option 2: Mix and Match If you want to use your existing tires, consider pairing the Continental Race King (fast-rolling) on the rear with a grippier tire (e.g., Specialized Purgatory Control) on the front. This setup prioritizes traction where it’s needed most (front wheel) while maintaining speed at the rear. 2. Tire Pressure: Your current pressures (1.2-1.3 bar front, 1.3-1.4 bar rear) are reasonable for your weight and tire size. However, since the ground is hard and cold, you can experiment with slightly lower pressures for better grip: Front: 1.1-1.2 bar Rear: 1.2-1.3 bar If you go tubeless, you can run even lower pressures (e.g., 1.0-1.1 bar front, 1.1-1.2 bar rear) without risking pinch flats. 3. Tubeless Conversion: If you’re not already running tubeless, this is a great time to switch. Tubeless tires allow you to run lower pressures for better grip and reduce the risk of flats. Most modern rims and tires (including your Newmen Evolution SL A30 and Specialized/Continental tires) are tubeless-ready or can be converted with a kit. 4. Climbing Technique: Weight Distribution: On steep climbs, consciously shift your weight forward to keep the front wheel grounded. Bend your elbows and keep your chest low. Smooth Pedaling: Use a steady, consistent pedal stroke to maintain traction. Avoid sudden bursts of power, which can cause the rear wheel to spin out. Line Choice: Pick the smoothest line through roots and rocks to maintain momentum. 5. Suspension Setup: Ensure your fork is properly tuned for your weight and riding style. Set the sag to 15-20% and adjust the rebound damping to match the terrain. Use the lockout feature on smooth climbs to improve efficiency, but open it up on technical climbs for better traction. Summary of Recommendations: Action Details Expected Benefit Replace Worn Tires Use fresh Specialized Fast Trak Control, Schwalbe Rocket Ron, or Maxxis Ikon. Restores grip and maintains speed. Mix and Match Tires Use Continental Race King (rear) + Specialized Purgatory Control (front). Balances speed and traction. Adjust Tire Pressure Lower slightly (1.1-1.2 bar front, 1.2-1.3 bar rear). Improves grip on hard, cold ground. Go Tubeless Convert to tubeless for lower pressures and fewer flats. Enhances traction and reduces flat risk. Climbing Technique Shift weight forward, use smooth pedal strokes, pick better lines. Keeps front wheel grounded and maintains traction. Suspension Setup Set fork sag to 15-20%; use lockout on smooth climbs. Improves efficiency and control. Next Steps: Replace your worn Fast Trak tires with a fresh set or mix and match your existing tires for better grip. Experiment with slightly lower tire pressures to improve traction. Consider switching to a tubeless setup for even better performance. Focus on climbing technique and suspension setup to address front-wheel lift and traction issues.

Do you really mean shorter steam on the climbs? Wouldn't be longer stem beneficial in shifting bodyweight forward to counter lifting the front wheel off the ground? You're absolutely correct—my earlier suggestion of a shorter stem was a mistake in the context of addressing front-wheel lift on steep climbs. A longer stem would indeed help shift your weight forward, which is exactly what you need to keep the front wheel grounded. Thank you for catching that! Let me clarify and provide the correct recommendations. Why a Longer Stem Helps on Climbs: A longer stem moves your handlebars farther forward, which shifts your body weight toward the front of the bike. This helps keep the front wheel grounded on steep climbs, especially when combined with proper body positioning (leaning forward, chest low). Corrected Recommendations: 1. Stem Length: Current Stem: Check the length of your current stem. If it’s shorter than 70-80 mm, consider switching to a longer stem (e.g., 80-100 mm). Effect: A longer stem will help distribute more weight over the front wheel, reducing the tendency for it to lift on steep climbs. 2. Saddle Position: Slide your saddle slightly forward on the rails (5-10 mm). This also shifts your weight forward and helps keep the front wheel grounded. 3. Body Positioning: On steep climbs, consciously lean forward and keep your chest low. This moves your center of gravity forward and improves front-wheel traction. Keep your elbows bent to maintain control and balance.

I generally don't have any problems on descents. But I have problems with traction and with front wheel lifting off the ground on steep ascents. Thanks for clarifying! If your main challenges are traction on steep climbs and the front wheel lifting off the ground, we can focus on adjustments and upgrades to address these specific issues. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the problem and solutions: Root Causes of Your Issues: Traction Problems on Steep Climbs: This is often caused by: Insufficient weight on the rear wheel. Tires with inadequate grip for the terrain (roots, sand). Tire pressure that’s too high. Front Wheel Lifting on Steep Climbs: This is typically caused by: A steep seat tube angle (STA) or short reach, which positions your weight too far back. Insufficient weight distribution toward the front of the bike. A high bottom bracket (BB), which raises your center of gravity and reduces stability. Solutions to Improve Traction and Climbing Performance: 1. Tire Upgrades: Wider Tires: Switch to 2.4" to 2.6" tires with an aggressive tread pattern designed for loose and rooty terrain. Examples: Maxxis Forekaster (great for loose and wet conditions). Schwalbe Rocket Ron (lightweight and grippy). Specialized Ground Control (excellent for mixed terrain). Tubeless Setup: Run your tires tubeless with lower pressures (e.g., 18-22 psi). This improves grip and reduces the risk of pinch flats. 2. Weight Distribution Adjustments: Saddle Position: Slide your saddle slightly forward on the rails (5-10 mm). This shifts your weight forward, helping to keep the front wheel grounded. Body Position: On steep climbs, consciously lean forward and keep your chest low to distribute more weight over the front wheel. Stem Length: If your bike feels too short, consider a shorter stem (e.g., 10-20 mm shorter). This shifts your weight forward and improves front-wheel traction. 3. Suspension Setup: Fork Sag: Set your fork sag to 15-20%. This ensures the front end stays planted and responsive on climbs. Lockout: Use the fork’s lockout feature on smooth climbs to improve efficiency, but open it up on technical climbs for better traction. 4. Geometry Adjustments: Angled Headset: If your bike’s head tube angle is too steep (69.8°), consider an angled headset to slacken it by 1° to 1.5°. This will improve stability and weight distribution. Dropper Post: If you don’t already have one, consider adding a dropper seatpost. Lowering your saddle on steep climbs can help you shift your weight forward and maintain control. 5. Technique Improvements: Climbing Technique: Stay seated as much as possible to maintain traction on the rear wheel. Use a smooth, consistent pedal stroke to avoid spinning out on loose terrain. On very steep climbs, shift your weight forward while keeping your elbows bent and chest low. Line Choice: Pick the smoothest line through roots and rocks to maintain momentum and reduce the risk of losing traction. Summary of Recommendations: Solution Action Expected Benefit Tire Upgrade Switch to 2.4" to 2.6" tires with aggressive tread; go tubeless. Improved traction on roots, sand, and loose terrain. Weight Distribution Slide saddle forward; use a shorter stem; adjust body position. Better front-wheel grip and reduced wheel lift on steep climbs. Suspension Setup Set fork sag to 15-20%; use lockout on smooth climbs. Improved front-end traction and efficiency. Geometry Adjustments Consider an angled headset or dropper post. Better weight distribution and stability on steep climbs. Climbing Technique Stay seated, use smooth pedal strokes, and pick better lines. Maintains traction and momentum on technical climbs. Next Steps: Start with tire upgrades and a tubeless setup, as these will have the most immediate impact on traction. Experiment with saddle position and body positioning to improve weight distribution. If the problem persists, consider geometry adjustments (angled headset, dropper post) or a shorter stem.

Geometry of my bike: Size L, 19 inch HTA 69.8 STA 74 Reach 441 Stack 622 Chainstay length 430 BB height 309 Wheelbase 1128 Fork travel 100 mm (Fox Step Cast Performance Float 32) Tire clearance 2.35 inch My proportions: Height 175 cm Inseam 84.5 cm Arm span 182 cm Thank you for providing the detailed geometry of your bike and your body proportions! Let’s analyze how well your current bike fits you and whether it’s optimized for your test loop (28 km with roots, sand, steep climbs, and rolling terrain). Bike Geometry Analysis: Geometry Feature Your Bike Ideal for Your Loop Analysis Head Tube Angle (HTA) 69.8° 67° to 68.5° Slightly steeper than ideal. This makes the bike quick-handling but less stable on descents and technical terrain. Seat Tube Angle (STA) 74° 74° to 75° Good for climbing efficiency. Matches the ideal range. Reach 441 mm 440 mm to 460 mm Fits well within the ideal range. Provides a balanced, comfortable position. Stack 622 mm 610 mm to 630 mm Slightly taller stack, which is good for reducing strain on your back and neck. Chainstay Length 430 mm 430 mm to 440 mm Ideal for agility and stability. BB Height 309 mm 305 mm to 315 mm Slightly higher than ideal, which improves pedal clearance but reduces stability slightly. Wheelbase 1,128 mm 1,150 mm to 1,180 mm Slightly shorter than ideal. This makes the bike nimble but less stable at speed. Fork Travel 100 mm 120 mm Less travel than ideal. A 120 mm fork would improve comfort and control on rough terrain. Tire Clearance 2.35" 2.4" or wider Slightly narrower than ideal. Wider tires would improve traction and comfort on roots and sand. Rider Fit Analysis: Your Proportions Analysis Height: 175 cm A size Large (19") frame is appropriate for your height. Inseam: 84.5 cm Your saddle height should be set correctly for efficient pedaling. Arm Span: 182 cm Your arm span is longer than your height, which means you might benefit from a slightly longer reach or stem to avoid feeling cramped. Key Observations: Handling on Technical Terrain: The steeper head tube angle (69.8°) and shorter wheelbase (1,128 mm) make the bike quick and nimble but less stable on descents and rough terrain. For roots, sand, and steep climbs, a slacker HTA (67° to 68.5°) and longer wheelbase (1,150 mm to 1,180 mm) would improve stability and confidence. Fork Travel: The 100 mm fork is adequate for XC riding but less ideal for technical terrain. A 120 mm fork would provide more cushion and control on roots and descents. Tire Clearance: The 2.35" tire clearance is slightly narrow for your terrain. Wider tires (2.4" to 2.6") would improve traction and comfort on roots and sand. Rider Fit: The frame size and reach are appropriate for your height, but your longer arm span might make the bike feel slightly cramped. A longer stem or handlebars with more backsweep could improve comfort. Recommendations for Improvement: 1. Fork Upgrade: Consider upgrading to a 120 mm travel fork (e.g., Fox 34 Step-Cast or RockShox SID Ultimate). This will improve comfort and control on rough terrain without significantly affecting climbing efficiency. 2. Tire Upgrade: Switch to wider tires (2.4" to 2.6") with a tread pattern suited to your terrain (e.g., Maxxis Forekaster or Schwalbe Rocket Ron). This will improve traction and comfort on roots and sand. 3. Handlebar and Stem Adjustments: If the bike feels cramped, try a longer stem (10-20 mm longer) or handlebars with more backsweep (8° to 12°) to better suit your arm span. 4. Tubeless Setup: If you’re not already running tubeless, switch to a tubeless setup. This will allow you to run lower tire pressures for better grip and reduce the risk of flats. 5. Geometry Adjustment: If possible, use an angled headset to slacken the head tube angle by 1° to 1.5°. This will improve stability on descents without requiring a new frame. Conclusion: Your current bike is well-suited for XC riding but could be optimized for the technical terrain of your test loop. Upgrading the fork, tires, and handlebar/stem setup would make the biggest difference. If you’re considering a new bike, look for one with a slacker head tube angle (67° to 68.5°), longer wheelbase (1,150 mm to 1,180 mm), and 120 mm of fork travel.

What geometry for a hardtail bike would be optimum for my test loop? To determine the optimum geometry for a hardtail bike suited to your test loop, we need to consider the specific characteristics of your ride: Terrain: A mix of flat sections, roots, sand, steep short climbs, and rolling terrain. Distance: 28 km loop (part of a longer 50 km ride). Rider Profile: 175 cm tall, 85 kg, slightly overweight, prioritizing comfort and control. Based on these factors, here’s a breakdown of the ideal geometry for your hardtail: 1. Head Tube Angle (HTA): Recommended: 67° to 68.5° Why: A slightly slacker head tube angle (around 67° to 68°) will improve stability on descents and technical sections (roots, sand). However, since your loop includes steep climbs, you don’t want it too slack, as that can make climbing feel less efficient. A middle ground (67.5° to 68°) strikes a good balance between climbing efficiency and descending confidence. 2. Seat Tube Angle (STA): Recommended: 74° to 75° Why: A steeper seat tube angle positions you more directly over the bottom bracket, improving pedaling efficiency and comfort on climbs. This is especially important for steep, short climbs where you need to maintain traction and power. 3. Reach and Stack: Recommended Reach (for your height): 440 mm to 460 mm Recommended Stack: 610 mm to 630 mm Why: A moderate reach ensures a comfortable, balanced riding position that’s not too stretched out or cramped. A taller stack height (higher front end) will reduce strain on your back, neck, and shoulders, which is important for 50+ year-old rider. 4. Chainstay Length: Recommended: 430 mm to 440 mm Why: Shorter chainstays improve agility and make it easier to lift the front wheel over obstacles like roots. However, too short can make the bike feel twitchy, so a middle ground (around 435 mm) is ideal for stability and maneuverability. 5. Bottom Bracket Height (BB Height): Recommended: 305 mm to 315 mm (unsagged) Why: A slightly lower bottom bracket improves stability and cornering grip, which is helpful on rolling terrain and descents. However, you don’t want it too low, as that increases the risk of pedal strikes on roots and rocks. 6. Wheelbase: Recommended: 1,150 mm to 1,180 mm Why: A moderate wheelbase provides a good balance between stability and agility. Too short can feel twitchy, while too long can feel sluggish on tight, technical sections. 7. Fork Travel: Recommended: 120 mm Why: 120 mm of front suspension is ideal for your terrain, providing enough cushion for roots and descents without being overly heavy or inefficient for climbing. If you prefer a lighter setup, 100 mm is also an option, but it will be less forgiving on rough terrain. 8. Tire Clearance: Recommended: At least 2.4" tire clearance Why: Wider tires (2.4" to 2.6") provide better traction and comfort on roots, sand, and loose terrain. They also allow you to run lower pressures for improved grip without risking pinch flats. Example Bikes with Ideal Geometry: Here are a few hardtails with geometry that would suit your test loop: Specialized Chisel: HTA: 68.5° STA: 74° Reach: 445 mm (size Large) Chainstays: 430 mm Tire Clearance: 2.4" Trek Procaliber: HTA: 69° (slightly steeper for XC efficiency) STA: 74.5° Reach: 450 mm (size Large) Chainstays: 435 mm Tire Clearance: 2.4" Canyon Exceed: HTA: 68.5° STA: 74° Reach: 455 mm (size Large) Chainstays: 430 mm Tire Clearance: 2.4" Summary of Ideal Geometry for Your Test Loop: Geometry Feature Recommended Range Why Head Tube Angle (HTA) 67° to 68.5° Balances climbing efficiency and descending stability. Seat Tube Angle (STA) 74° to 75° Improves pedaling efficiency and comfort on climbs. Reach 440 mm to 460 mm Ensures a comfortable, balanced riding position. Stack 610 mm to 630 mm Reduces strain on your back, neck, and shoulders. Chainstay Length 430 mm to 440 mm Balances agility and stability. BB Height 305 mm to 315 mm Improves stability and cornering grip without risking pedal strikes. Wheelbase 1,150 mm to 1,180 mm Provides a balance between stability and agility. Fork Travel 120 mm Offers enough cushion for roots and descents without sacrificing weight. Tire Clearance 2.4" or wider Improves traction and comfort on roots, sand, and loose terrain. Final Thoughts: A hardtail with the above geometry would be well-suited to your test loop, offering a good balance of efficiency, comfort, and control. If you’re considering a new bike, look for models with these specifications, or consider adjusting your current bike’s setup (e.g., stem length, handlebar rise) to better match these recommendations.

When did Specialized switched to threaded bottom bracket in Epic and Epic Evo models? Specialized switched to a threaded bottom bracket in the Epic and Epic Evo models starting with the 2021 model year. This change was part of a broader trend in the cycling industry to move away from press-fit bottom brackets, which had been criticized for issues like creaking and difficulty in maintenance. Key Details About the Switch: Model Year: 2021 Bottom Bracket Standard: Threaded (BSA standard). Reason for Change: To improve reliability, reduce creaking, and make maintenance easier for riders and mechanics. Why Threaded Bottom Brackets Are Better: Reliability: Threaded bottom brackets are less prone to creaking and loosening compared to press-fit systems. Ease of Maintenance: They are easier to install, remove, and service. Compatibility: The BSA threaded standard is widely supported, making it easier to find replacement parts or upgrade components. Impact on the Epic and Epic Evo: The switch to a threaded bottom bracket was a welcome change for riders, as it addressed one of the few common complaints about earlier models. It also aligned with Specialized’s focus on improving durability and user-friendliness in their high-performance bikes. How to Identify: If you’re looking at a used or new Epic or Epic Evo and want to confirm whether it has a threaded bottom bracket: Check the Model Year: 2021 and later models have threaded bottom brackets. Look at the Frame: The bottom bracket area will have threads visible if it’s a threaded system. Consult the Specs: Specialized’s website or product manuals will list the bottom bracket type. Conclusion: If you’re considering an Epic or Epic Evo, opting for a 2021 or later model will ensure you get the more reliable and user-friendly threaded bottom bracket. This change is just one of many updates that make these bikes excellent choices for XC and downcountry riding.

What was the feature on some Epic or Epic Evo full suspension bike where you could switch the geometry of the fork? Was the reviews positive? You're referring to the Specialized Epic and Epic Evo's "Rocket Ron" or "Flip Chip" geometry adjustment feature. This feature allows you to change the bike's geometry by adjusting the head tube angle and bottom bracket height, effectively tailoring the bike's handling to different terrains or riding preferences. Let’s break it down and discuss how it works, its benefits, and what reviews have said about it. How the Flip Chip Works: Location: The flip chip is typically located at the rear shock mount or linkage. Adjustment: It has two settings: High Position (Steep Setting): Steeper head tube angle (e.g., 68.5°). Higher bottom bracket. Better for climbing and XC racing, as it provides a more responsive and efficient pedaling position. Low Position (Slack Setting): Slacker head tube angle (e.g., 67.5°). Lower bottom bracket. Better for descending and technical terrain, as it improves stability and confidence at speed. Benefits of the Flip Chip: Versatility: You can adjust the bike’s geometry to suit different trails or riding styles. For example, use the steep setting for XC races and the slack setting for technical descents. Customization: Riders can fine-tune the bike’s handling to their preferences, whether they prioritize climbing efficiency or descending stability. Ease of Use: Switching between settings is quick and requires minimal tools, making it easy to adapt the bike on the fly. What Reviews Say: The flip chip feature has generally received positive reviews from riders and testers. Here’s a summary of the feedback: Pros: Improved Versatility: Reviewers appreciate the ability to adapt the bike to different terrains and riding conditions. Noticeable Difference: The changes in head tube angle and bottom bracket height are subtle but noticeable, especially on technical descents or steep climbs. No Compromises: The flip chip allows the bike to perform well in both XC and trail-oriented settings without requiring a second bike. Cons: Limited Impact: Some reviewers note that the changes are relatively minor and may not be significant enough for riders who want a dedicated trail bike or a pure XC race bike. Not for Everyone: Casual riders or those who stick to one type of terrain may not find the feature necessary. Example Reviews: Pinkbike: Reviewers praised the flip chip for making the Epic Evo a more versatile bike, capable of handling both XC and light trail riding. They noted that the slack setting improved confidence on descents without sacrificing too much climbing efficiency. Quote: “The flip chip is a small but meaningful addition that lets you tailor the bike to your local trails.” BikeRadar: Testers highlighted the flip chip as a useful feature for riders who want a single bike that can do it all. They appreciated the ability to switch between a race-ready setup and a more relaxed, trail-oriented geometry. Quote: “The geometry adjustment is a neat trick that adds versatility to an already capable bike.” Singletracks: Reviewers noted that while the flip chip is a nice feature, it’s not a game-changer. However, they acknowledged that it adds value for riders who want to fine-tune their bike’s handling. Quote: “The flip chip is a thoughtful addition, but it’s not going to transform the bike into something completely different.” Should You Care About the Flip Chip? Yes, if: You ride a variety of terrains (e.g., XC races, technical trails, or steep descents). You like to tinker with your bike’s setup to optimize performance. You want a single bike that can adapt to different riding styles. No, if: You primarily ride one type of terrain (e.g., only smooth XC trails or only technical descents). You prefer a simple, set-it-and-forget-it setup. Conclusion: The flip chip geometry adjustment on the Specialized Epic and Epic Evo is a useful feature that adds versatility to an already capable bike. While it’s not a game-changer, it allows you to fine-tune the bike’s handling to suit your riding style or local trails. If you’re considering an Epic or Epic Evo, the flip chip is a nice bonus that could make the bike even more appealing. In which model was it introduced? The Flip Chip geometry adjustment feature was introduced on the Specialized Epic and Epic Evo models starting with the 2019 redesign. This redesign marked a significant update to the Epic lineup, bringing modern geometry, improved suspension kinematics, and the addition of the flip chip to allow riders to adjust the bike's handling characteristics. Key Details About the Flip Chip Introduction: Model Year: 2019 Bikes: Specialized Epic (XC race bike) and Epic Evo (downcountry/trail-oriented version). Purpose: To provide riders with the ability to tweak the bike's geometry for different terrains or riding styles. How It Works: The flip chip is located at the rear shock mount and offers two settings: High Position (Steep Setting): Steeper head tube angle (e.g., 68.5°). Higher bottom bracket. Better for climbing and XC racing. Low Position (Slack Setting): Slacker head tube angle (e.g., 67.5°). Lower bottom bracket. Better for descending and technical terrain. Why It Was Introduced: Specialized added the flip chip to make the Epic and Epic Evo more versatile, allowing riders to: Optimize the bike for specific trails or races. Adapt the bike's handling to their personal preferences. Bridge the gap between XC efficiency and trail bike capability (especially on the Epic Evo). Models with the Flip Chip: Specialized Epic (2019 and later): The XC race bike with 100 mm of rear travel. Specialized Epic Evo (2019 and later): The downcountry/trail-oriented version with 120 mm of rear travel. Reception: The flip chip was well-received by riders and reviewers, as it added a layer of customization without complicating the bike's design. It’s particularly appreciated by riders who want a single bike that can handle both XC racing and technical trail riding. If you’re considering a bike with this feature, the Epic Evo might be a great choice for your riding style, given its versatility and ability to handle technical terrain like roots, sand, and steep climbs. Let me know if you’d like more details about specific models or features! ?‍♂️

What would be the impact if I changed my current hardtail bike with 100 mm of front suspension to light XC downcountry full suspension bike weighting 500 grams more with 120 of front travel? Switching from your current hardtail (100 mm front suspension) to a lightweight XC/downcountry full-suspension bike (120 mm front travel, 500 grams heavier) would bring several significant changes to your riding experience, especially given the terrain you described (roots, sand, steep climbs, and rolling terrain). Let’s break down the potential impacts: 1. Weight Impact: 500 Grams Heavier: The additional weight of the full-suspension bike will slightly reduce your climbing efficiency and acceleration. However, the impact of 500 grams is relatively small, especially if the bike is well-designed and the weight is distributed effectively. For comparison, the benefits of full suspension (traction, comfort, and control) often outweigh the minor weight penalty. 2. Suspension Benefits: Improved Traction: Full suspension provides better rear-wheel traction, especially on technical terrain like roots, rocks, and loose sand. This means you’ll maintain momentum better and waste less energy bouncing over obstacles. On steep, short climbs, the rear suspension will help keep your rear wheel grounded, improving grip and reducing wheel spin. Comfort and Control: The added suspension will absorb bumps and vibrations, reducing fatigue on longer rides and technical sections. This is particularly beneficial for a 60-year-old rider, as it reduces strain on your joints and muscles. On descents and rolling terrain, the bike will feel more stable and controlled, allowing you to ride faster and with more confidence. 120 mm Front Travel: The increased front travel (from 100 mm to 120 mm) will provide better handling on rough terrain and steeper descents. It will also improve comfort on longer rides. 3. Terrain-Specific Impact: Roots and Sand: Full suspension will make a huge difference on rooty and sandy sections. The rear suspension will smooth out the bumps, and the improved traction will help you maintain speed and control. On sand, the rear suspension will help keep the bike stable and prevent the rear wheel from digging in. Steep Climbs: While the added weight might make climbs slightly harder, the improved traction from the rear suspension will often offset this. You’ll be able to power up steep, technical climbs more efficiently. Modern downcountry bikes are designed to be efficient climbers, so the performance penalty will be minimal. Flat Sections: On flat terrain, the full-suspension bike might feel slightly slower due to the added weight and suspension bob. However, most modern XC/downcountry bikes have lockout or firm suspension modes to minimize this effect. 4. Ride Quality and Fatigue: Reduced Fatigue: The full-suspension bike will significantly reduce the physical toll of riding on rough terrain. This means you’ll feel less fatigued after long rides, allowing you to ride longer or recover faster. For a 60-year-old rider, this is a major benefit, as it reduces strain on your back, arms, and joints. Confidence and Fun: The added control and comfort will make technical sections more enjoyable and less intimidating. You’ll likely find yourself riding faster and with more confidence on descents and rough terrain. 5. Downsides to Consider: Cost: A lightweight XC/downcountry full-suspension bike can be expensive. Ensure the investment aligns with your budget and riding goals. Maintenance: Full-suspension bikes require more maintenance (e.g., servicing the rear shock and pivots) compared to hardtails. Efficiency on Smooth Terrain: On completely smooth or flat sections, the hardtail might feel slightly more efficient due to its simplicity and lower weight. Summary of Impacts: Aspect Impact of Switching to Full Suspension Weight 500 grams heavier; slight penalty on climbs and acceleration, but offset by improved traction and comfort. Traction Significant improvement on roots, sand, and technical climbs. Comfort Major improvement; reduced fatigue and strain on joints. Control Better handling on descents and rough terrain; increased confidence. Climbing Slightly harder due to weight, but improved traction often offsets this. Flat Terrain Slightly less efficient, but lockout modes can mitigate this. Fun Factor More enjoyable on technical terrain; likely to increase your overall riding pleasure. Recommendation: If you frequently ride on technical terrain with roots, sand, and steep climbs, a lightweight XC/downcountry full-suspension bike could be a game-changer for your riding experience. The improved traction, comfort, and control will likely outweigh the minor weight penalty, especially given your age and the type of terrain you ride. However, if your rides are mostly on smooth or flat terrain, or if you prioritize efficiency and low maintenance, your current hardtail might still be the better choice. Next Steps: Test Ride: If possible, test ride a lightweight XC/downcountry full-suspension bike on your typical terrain to see how it feels. Consider Your Priorities: Decide whether the improved comfort and control are worth the added weight and cost. Look for Lightweight Options: Focus on bikes designed for downcountry or XC riding, as they prioritize weight savings and efficiency.

What I want to do is to analyze two scenarios for that specific loop. 1. Losing 3 kg of my bodyweight 2. Upgrading the bike to carbon wheels, which weigh 500 grams less Scenario 1: Losing 3 kg of Body Weight Impact on Performance: Power-to-Weight Ratio: Losing 3 kg of body weight directly improves your power-to-weight ratio, which is critical for climbing and accelerating. For example, if your current weight is 85 kg and you lose 3 kg, that’s a 3.5% reduction in total weight (including the bike). On climbs, this could translate to a noticeable improvement in speed and efficiency. Climbing Performance: On your loop with 218 meters of elevation gain, losing 3 kg could make climbs feel easier and allow you to maintain a higher speed. For example, if you currently average 10 km/h on a climb, a 3.5% improvement could increase your speed to ~10.35 km/h. Over multiple climbs, this adds up. Flat and Rolling Terrain: On flat sections, weight has less impact on performance compared to aerodynamics and rolling resistance. However, losing weight will still make it easier to accelerate out of corners or after technical sections. Overall Energy Expenditure: Carrying less weight reduces the energy required to ride, which could help you feel less fatigued over longer distances. Scenario 2: Upgrading to Carbon Wheels (500 grams lighter) Impact on Performance: Rotational Weight Reduction: Reducing wheel weight by 500 grams has a disproportionate impact on performance because rotational weight (especially at the rim) affects acceleration and climbing more than static weight. Losing 500 grams of rotational weight is roughly equivalent to losing 1.5-2 kg of static weight in terms of performance gains. Climbing Performance: On climbs, lighter wheels will make it easier to accelerate and maintain momentum. This is particularly beneficial on short, steep climbs where quick bursts of power are needed. For example, if you currently average 10 km/h on a climb, a 500-gram wheel reduction could improve your speed by ~1-2% (to ~10.1-10.2 km/h). Flat and Rolling Terrain: Lighter wheels improve acceleration out of corners and on rolling terrain, making it easier to maintain speed. On flat sections, the benefit is smaller but still noticeable, especially if you’re frequently accelerating (e.g., after roots or sand). Handling and Ride Quality: Carbon wheels are often stiffer, which can improve power transfer and handling on technical terrain. However, they can also be harsher on rough surfaces, so this is something to consider if comfort is a priority. Comparing the Two Scenarios: Aspect Losing 3 kg Body Weight Upgrading to Carbon Wheels (500g lighter) Climbing Performance ~3.5% improvement ~1-2% improvement Flat Terrain Minor improvement Minor improvement Acceleration Moderate improvement Significant improvement Cost Free (if achieved through diet/exercise) Expensive (carbon wheels can cost $1,000+) Other Benefits Improved overall health and fitness Improved handling and aesthetics Which is Better? Losing 3 kg of body weight will have a greater overall impact on performance, especially on climbs, and it comes with additional health benefits. It’s also free! Upgrading to carbon wheels will improve acceleration and handling, but the performance gains are smaller compared to losing body weight. However, it’s a more immediate change if you’re willing to invest. Recommendation: Focus on Losing 3 kg First: This will give you the most significant performance boost, especially on climbs, and it’s cost-effective. Combine a healthy diet with targeted strength training and endurance rides to achieve this goal. Consider Carbon Wheels Later: Once you’ve lost the weight, upgrading to carbon wheels could be the next step to further optimize performance. If you’re eager to upgrade now, prioritize a tubeless setup first, as it will improve traction and comfort on roots and sand, making your rides more enjoyable. Final Thoughts: Both changes will improve your performance, but losing 3 kg of body weight is the more impactful and cost-effective option. If you’re looking for a quick upgrade, consider going tubeless first, as it will improve your ride quality on technical terrain. Let me know if you’d like tips on weight loss, training, or wheel upgrades! ?‍♂️

Teraz pytania związane z taką pętlą testową: Full Ride Metrics: Total Distance: 51.7 km Total Time: 3:27 hours Average Speed: ~15 km/h (consistent with your typical winter average) Loop Section (Woods): 28 km, 2:02 hours, 218 m elevation gain Flat Section (to/from Woods): 23.7 km, ~1:25 hours (assuming similar average speed) Temperature: +2°C Niestety włącza się jakieś zabezpieczenie, które nie pozwala mi opublikować dalszej części tekstu.

Ciąg dalszy opowieści. Tym razem dyskusje z DeepSeek ? Topic: hardtail mountain bike. My case. Slightly overweight. 175 cm tall. 85 kg weight. My bike. Specialized Epic Comp Carbon 2017. Bike weight around 10.5 kg Wheels, Newmen Evolution SL. A30, with 30 mm rims. Weight 1800 grams. Looking for improvements. My typical bike ride is 50 km. 300 metres denivelation Average speed in winter 15-18 km/h. In summer 18-20 km/h Half of my course is completely flat to get to the woods. In the woods a lot of roots, sand, steep, short climbs, rolling terrain. Do you recon carbon wheels would be beneficial? Do you recon that changing butyl tubes to light TPU tubes or going tubeless would be beneficial? Given your weight, riding style, and the terrain you typically ride, there are several improvements you could consider for your Specialized Epic Comp Carbon 2017 hardtail mountain bike. Let’s break it down: 1. Carbon Wheels Pros: Carbon wheels are lighter and stiffer than aluminum wheels, which can improve acceleration, climbing efficiency, and overall handling. They also tend to be more durable in the long run if you’re riding on rough terrain. Cons: Carbon wheels can be expensive, and while they are strong, they can be more susceptible to impact damage (e.g., hitting a rock at high speed) compared to aluminum. Given your weight (85 kg), you’d need to ensure the wheels are rated for your weight and riding style. Verdict: If you’re looking for marginal gains in performance and are willing to invest, carbon wheels could be beneficial, especially for climbing and rolling terrain. However, the benefits might not be dramatic given your current wheels (Newmen Evolution SL A30) are already relatively light at 1800 grams. 2. Tubeless Setup Pros: Going tubeless can reduce rolling resistance, improve traction, and allow you to run lower tire pressures for better comfort and grip on roots and sandy terrain. It also eliminates the risk of pinch flats, which is a plus if you’re riding over roots and rough terrain. Cons: There’s a bit of a learning curve with setting up and maintaining tubeless tires, and you’ll need to carry a tubeless repair kit in case of larger punctures. Verdict: Switching to a tubeless setup is highly recommended for your type of riding. It will improve comfort, traction, and potentially reduce the overall weight of your bike. This is likely one of the most cost-effective upgrades you can make. 3. Lightweight TPU Tubes Pros: TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) tubes are significantly lighter than standard butyl tubes, which can reduce rotational weight and improve acceleration. They also tend to hold air better than butyl tubes. Cons: TPU tubes are more expensive and can be more fragile than standard tubes, though they are still more robust than going tubeless. Verdict: If you’re not ready to go fully tubeless, switching to lightweight TPU tubes could be a good intermediate step. However, given the benefits of tubeless, it might be better to go straight to a tubeless setup. 4. Other Considerations Tires: Given your terrain (roots, sand, steep climbs), consider upgrading to tires with better grip and durability. Look for tires with a more aggressive tread pattern and sidewall protection. The right tire choice can make a big difference in traction and comfort. Suspension Setup: Ensure your fork is properly tuned for your weight and riding style. A well-tuned suspension can improve comfort and control, especially on rough terrain. Drivetrain: If your drivetrain is worn or outdated, consider upgrading to a more modern 1x drivetrain. This can simplify shifting and reduce weight. Saddle and Ergonomics: Comfort is key. Ensure your saddle, handlebars, and grips are optimized for your body. A professional bike fit might be worth considering if you haven’t had one recently. Summary of Recommendations: Tubeless Setup: This should be your first priority. It will improve traction, comfort, and reduce the risk of flats. Tires: Invest in high-quality tires suited to your terrain. Carbon Wheels: If you have the budget and want to optimize performance, carbon wheels could be a good upgrade, but they are not essential. TPU Tubes: Only consider these if you’re not ready to go tubeless, but tubeless is the better long-term solution. By focusing on these areas, you should see noticeable improvements in your ride quality, comfort, and performance.