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When did Specialized switched to threaded bottom bracket in Epic and Epic Evo models? Specialized switched to a threaded bottom bracket in the Epic and Epic Evo models starting with the 2021 model year. This change was part of a broader trend in the cycling industry to move away from press-fit bottom brackets, which had been criticized for issues like creaking and difficulty in maintenance. Key Details About the Switch: Model Year: 2021 Bottom Bracket Standard: Threaded (BSA standard). Reason for Change: To improve reliability, reduce creaking, and make maintenance easier for riders and mechanics. Why Threaded Bottom Brackets Are Better: Reliability: Threaded bottom brackets are less prone to creaking and loosening compared to press-fit systems. Ease of Maintenance: They are easier to install, remove, and service. Compatibility: The BSA threaded standard is widely supported, making it easier to find replacement parts or upgrade components. Impact on the Epic and Epic Evo: The switch to a threaded bottom bracket was a welcome change for riders, as it addressed one of the few common complaints about earlier models. It also aligned with Specialized’s focus on improving durability and user-friendliness in their high-performance bikes. How to Identify: If you’re looking at a used or new Epic or Epic Evo and want to confirm whether it has a threaded bottom bracket: Check the Model Year: 2021 and later models have threaded bottom brackets. Look at the Frame: The bottom bracket area will have threads visible if it’s a threaded system. Consult the Specs: Specialized’s website or product manuals will list the bottom bracket type. Conclusion: If you’re considering an Epic or Epic Evo, opting for a 2021 or later model will ensure you get the more reliable and user-friendly threaded bottom bracket. This change is just one of many updates that make these bikes excellent choices for XC and downcountry riding.

What was the feature on some Epic or Epic Evo full suspension bike where you could switch the geometry of the fork? Was the reviews positive? You're referring to the Specialized Epic and Epic Evo's "Rocket Ron" or "Flip Chip" geometry adjustment feature. This feature allows you to change the bike's geometry by adjusting the head tube angle and bottom bracket height, effectively tailoring the bike's handling to different terrains or riding preferences. Let’s break it down and discuss how it works, its benefits, and what reviews have said about it. How the Flip Chip Works: Location: The flip chip is typically located at the rear shock mount or linkage. Adjustment: It has two settings: High Position (Steep Setting): Steeper head tube angle (e.g., 68.5°). Higher bottom bracket. Better for climbing and XC racing, as it provides a more responsive and efficient pedaling position. Low Position (Slack Setting): Slacker head tube angle (e.g., 67.5°). Lower bottom bracket. Better for descending and technical terrain, as it improves stability and confidence at speed. Benefits of the Flip Chip: Versatility: You can adjust the bike’s geometry to suit different trails or riding styles. For example, use the steep setting for XC races and the slack setting for technical descents. Customization: Riders can fine-tune the bike’s handling to their preferences, whether they prioritize climbing efficiency or descending stability. Ease of Use: Switching between settings is quick and requires minimal tools, making it easy to adapt the bike on the fly. What Reviews Say: The flip chip feature has generally received positive reviews from riders and testers. Here’s a summary of the feedback: Pros: Improved Versatility: Reviewers appreciate the ability to adapt the bike to different terrains and riding conditions. Noticeable Difference: The changes in head tube angle and bottom bracket height are subtle but noticeable, especially on technical descents or steep climbs. No Compromises: The flip chip allows the bike to perform well in both XC and trail-oriented settings without requiring a second bike. Cons: Limited Impact: Some reviewers note that the changes are relatively minor and may not be significant enough for riders who want a dedicated trail bike or a pure XC race bike. Not for Everyone: Casual riders or those who stick to one type of terrain may not find the feature necessary. Example Reviews: Pinkbike: Reviewers praised the flip chip for making the Epic Evo a more versatile bike, capable of handling both XC and light trail riding. They noted that the slack setting improved confidence on descents without sacrificing too much climbing efficiency. Quote: “The flip chip is a small but meaningful addition that lets you tailor the bike to your local trails.” BikeRadar: Testers highlighted the flip chip as a useful feature for riders who want a single bike that can do it all. They appreciated the ability to switch between a race-ready setup and a more relaxed, trail-oriented geometry. Quote: “The geometry adjustment is a neat trick that adds versatility to an already capable bike.” Singletracks: Reviewers noted that while the flip chip is a nice feature, it’s not a game-changer. However, they acknowledged that it adds value for riders who want to fine-tune their bike’s handling. Quote: “The flip chip is a thoughtful addition, but it’s not going to transform the bike into something completely different.” Should You Care About the Flip Chip? Yes, if: You ride a variety of terrains (e.g., XC races, technical trails, or steep descents). You like to tinker with your bike’s setup to optimize performance. You want a single bike that can adapt to different riding styles. No, if: You primarily ride one type of terrain (e.g., only smooth XC trails or only technical descents). You prefer a simple, set-it-and-forget-it setup. Conclusion: The flip chip geometry adjustment on the Specialized Epic and Epic Evo is a useful feature that adds versatility to an already capable bike. While it’s not a game-changer, it allows you to fine-tune the bike’s handling to suit your riding style or local trails. If you’re considering an Epic or Epic Evo, the flip chip is a nice bonus that could make the bike even more appealing. In which model was it introduced? The Flip Chip geometry adjustment feature was introduced on the Specialized Epic and Epic Evo models starting with the 2019 redesign. This redesign marked a significant update to the Epic lineup, bringing modern geometry, improved suspension kinematics, and the addition of the flip chip to allow riders to adjust the bike's handling characteristics. Key Details About the Flip Chip Introduction: Model Year: 2019 Bikes: Specialized Epic (XC race bike) and Epic Evo (downcountry/trail-oriented version). Purpose: To provide riders with the ability to tweak the bike's geometry for different terrains or riding styles. How It Works: The flip chip is located at the rear shock mount and offers two settings: High Position (Steep Setting): Steeper head tube angle (e.g., 68.5°). Higher bottom bracket. Better for climbing and XC racing. Low Position (Slack Setting): Slacker head tube angle (e.g., 67.5°). Lower bottom bracket. Better for descending and technical terrain. Why It Was Introduced: Specialized added the flip chip to make the Epic and Epic Evo more versatile, allowing riders to: Optimize the bike for specific trails or races. Adapt the bike's handling to their personal preferences. Bridge the gap between XC efficiency and trail bike capability (especially on the Epic Evo). Models with the Flip Chip: Specialized Epic (2019 and later): The XC race bike with 100 mm of rear travel. Specialized Epic Evo (2019 and later): The downcountry/trail-oriented version with 120 mm of rear travel. Reception: The flip chip was well-received by riders and reviewers, as it added a layer of customization without complicating the bike's design. It’s particularly appreciated by riders who want a single bike that can handle both XC racing and technical trail riding. If you’re considering a bike with this feature, the Epic Evo might be a great choice for your riding style, given its versatility and ability to handle technical terrain like roots, sand, and steep climbs. Let me know if you’d like more details about specific models or features! ?‍♂️

What would be the impact if I changed my current hardtail bike with 100 mm of front suspension to light XC downcountry full suspension bike weighting 500 grams more with 120 of front travel? Switching from your current hardtail (100 mm front suspension) to a lightweight XC/downcountry full-suspension bike (120 mm front travel, 500 grams heavier) would bring several significant changes to your riding experience, especially given the terrain you described (roots, sand, steep climbs, and rolling terrain). Let’s break down the potential impacts: 1. Weight Impact: 500 Grams Heavier: The additional weight of the full-suspension bike will slightly reduce your climbing efficiency and acceleration. However, the impact of 500 grams is relatively small, especially if the bike is well-designed and the weight is distributed effectively. For comparison, the benefits of full suspension (traction, comfort, and control) often outweigh the minor weight penalty. 2. Suspension Benefits: Improved Traction: Full suspension provides better rear-wheel traction, especially on technical terrain like roots, rocks, and loose sand. This means you’ll maintain momentum better and waste less energy bouncing over obstacles. On steep, short climbs, the rear suspension will help keep your rear wheel grounded, improving grip and reducing wheel spin. Comfort and Control: The added suspension will absorb bumps and vibrations, reducing fatigue on longer rides and technical sections. This is particularly beneficial for a 60-year-old rider, as it reduces strain on your joints and muscles. On descents and rolling terrain, the bike will feel more stable and controlled, allowing you to ride faster and with more confidence. 120 mm Front Travel: The increased front travel (from 100 mm to 120 mm) will provide better handling on rough terrain and steeper descents. It will also improve comfort on longer rides. 3. Terrain-Specific Impact: Roots and Sand: Full suspension will make a huge difference on rooty and sandy sections. The rear suspension will smooth out the bumps, and the improved traction will help you maintain speed and control. On sand, the rear suspension will help keep the bike stable and prevent the rear wheel from digging in. Steep Climbs: While the added weight might make climbs slightly harder, the improved traction from the rear suspension will often offset this. You’ll be able to power up steep, technical climbs more efficiently. Modern downcountry bikes are designed to be efficient climbers, so the performance penalty will be minimal. Flat Sections: On flat terrain, the full-suspension bike might feel slightly slower due to the added weight and suspension bob. However, most modern XC/downcountry bikes have lockout or firm suspension modes to minimize this effect. 4. Ride Quality and Fatigue: Reduced Fatigue: The full-suspension bike will significantly reduce the physical toll of riding on rough terrain. This means you’ll feel less fatigued after long rides, allowing you to ride longer or recover faster. For a 60-year-old rider, this is a major benefit, as it reduces strain on your back, arms, and joints. Confidence and Fun: The added control and comfort will make technical sections more enjoyable and less intimidating. You’ll likely find yourself riding faster and with more confidence on descents and rough terrain. 5. Downsides to Consider: Cost: A lightweight XC/downcountry full-suspension bike can be expensive. Ensure the investment aligns with your budget and riding goals. Maintenance: Full-suspension bikes require more maintenance (e.g., servicing the rear shock and pivots) compared to hardtails. Efficiency on Smooth Terrain: On completely smooth or flat sections, the hardtail might feel slightly more efficient due to its simplicity and lower weight. Summary of Impacts: Aspect Impact of Switching to Full Suspension Weight 500 grams heavier; slight penalty on climbs and acceleration, but offset by improved traction and comfort. Traction Significant improvement on roots, sand, and technical climbs. Comfort Major improvement; reduced fatigue and strain on joints. Control Better handling on descents and rough terrain; increased confidence. Climbing Slightly harder due to weight, but improved traction often offsets this. Flat Terrain Slightly less efficient, but lockout modes can mitigate this. Fun Factor More enjoyable on technical terrain; likely to increase your overall riding pleasure. Recommendation: If you frequently ride on technical terrain with roots, sand, and steep climbs, a lightweight XC/downcountry full-suspension bike could be a game-changer for your riding experience. The improved traction, comfort, and control will likely outweigh the minor weight penalty, especially given your age and the type of terrain you ride. However, if your rides are mostly on smooth or flat terrain, or if you prioritize efficiency and low maintenance, your current hardtail might still be the better choice. Next Steps: Test Ride: If possible, test ride a lightweight XC/downcountry full-suspension bike on your typical terrain to see how it feels. Consider Your Priorities: Decide whether the improved comfort and control are worth the added weight and cost. Look for Lightweight Options: Focus on bikes designed for downcountry or XC riding, as they prioritize weight savings and efficiency.

What I want to do is to analyze two scenarios for that specific loop. 1. Losing 3 kg of my bodyweight 2. Upgrading the bike to carbon wheels, which weigh 500 grams less Scenario 1: Losing 3 kg of Body Weight Impact on Performance: Power-to-Weight Ratio: Losing 3 kg of body weight directly improves your power-to-weight ratio, which is critical for climbing and accelerating. For example, if your current weight is 85 kg and you lose 3 kg, that’s a 3.5% reduction in total weight (including the bike). On climbs, this could translate to a noticeable improvement in speed and efficiency. Climbing Performance: On your loop with 218 meters of elevation gain, losing 3 kg could make climbs feel easier and allow you to maintain a higher speed. For example, if you currently average 10 km/h on a climb, a 3.5% improvement could increase your speed to ~10.35 km/h. Over multiple climbs, this adds up. Flat and Rolling Terrain: On flat sections, weight has less impact on performance compared to aerodynamics and rolling resistance. However, losing weight will still make it easier to accelerate out of corners or after technical sections. Overall Energy Expenditure: Carrying less weight reduces the energy required to ride, which could help you feel less fatigued over longer distances. Scenario 2: Upgrading to Carbon Wheels (500 grams lighter) Impact on Performance: Rotational Weight Reduction: Reducing wheel weight by 500 grams has a disproportionate impact on performance because rotational weight (especially at the rim) affects acceleration and climbing more than static weight. Losing 500 grams of rotational weight is roughly equivalent to losing 1.5-2 kg of static weight in terms of performance gains. Climbing Performance: On climbs, lighter wheels will make it easier to accelerate and maintain momentum. This is particularly beneficial on short, steep climbs where quick bursts of power are needed. For example, if you currently average 10 km/h on a climb, a 500-gram wheel reduction could improve your speed by ~1-2% (to ~10.1-10.2 km/h). Flat and Rolling Terrain: Lighter wheels improve acceleration out of corners and on rolling terrain, making it easier to maintain speed. On flat sections, the benefit is smaller but still noticeable, especially if you’re frequently accelerating (e.g., after roots or sand). Handling and Ride Quality: Carbon wheels are often stiffer, which can improve power transfer and handling on technical terrain. However, they can also be harsher on rough surfaces, so this is something to consider if comfort is a priority. Comparing the Two Scenarios: Aspect Losing 3 kg Body Weight Upgrading to Carbon Wheels (500g lighter) Climbing Performance ~3.5% improvement ~1-2% improvement Flat Terrain Minor improvement Minor improvement Acceleration Moderate improvement Significant improvement Cost Free (if achieved through diet/exercise) Expensive (carbon wheels can cost $1,000+) Other Benefits Improved overall health and fitness Improved handling and aesthetics Which is Better? Losing 3 kg of body weight will have a greater overall impact on performance, especially on climbs, and it comes with additional health benefits. It’s also free! Upgrading to carbon wheels will improve acceleration and handling, but the performance gains are smaller compared to losing body weight. However, it’s a more immediate change if you’re willing to invest. Recommendation: Focus on Losing 3 kg First: This will give you the most significant performance boost, especially on climbs, and it’s cost-effective. Combine a healthy diet with targeted strength training and endurance rides to achieve this goal. Consider Carbon Wheels Later: Once you’ve lost the weight, upgrading to carbon wheels could be the next step to further optimize performance. If you’re eager to upgrade now, prioritize a tubeless setup first, as it will improve traction and comfort on roots and sand, making your rides more enjoyable. Final Thoughts: Both changes will improve your performance, but losing 3 kg of body weight is the more impactful and cost-effective option. If you’re looking for a quick upgrade, consider going tubeless first, as it will improve your ride quality on technical terrain. Let me know if you’d like tips on weight loss, training, or wheel upgrades! ?‍♂️

Teraz pytania związane z taką pętlą testową: Full Ride Metrics: Total Distance: 51.7 km Total Time: 3:27 hours Average Speed: ~15 km/h (consistent with your typical winter average) Loop Section (Woods): 28 km, 2:02 hours, 218 m elevation gain Flat Section (to/from Woods): 23.7 km, ~1:25 hours (assuming similar average speed) Temperature: +2°C Niestety włącza się jakieś zabezpieczenie, które nie pozwala mi opublikować dalszej części tekstu.

Ciąg dalszy opowieści. Tym razem dyskusje z DeepSeek ? Topic: hardtail mountain bike. My case. Slightly overweight. 175 cm tall. 85 kg weight. My bike. Specialized Epic Comp Carbon 2017. Bike weight around 10.5 kg Wheels, Newmen Evolution SL. A30, with 30 mm rims. Weight 1800 grams. Looking for improvements. My typical bike ride is 50 km. 300 metres denivelation Average speed in winter 15-18 km/h. In summer 18-20 km/h Half of my course is completely flat to get to the woods. In the woods a lot of roots, sand, steep, short climbs, rolling terrain. Do you recon carbon wheels would be beneficial? Do you recon that changing butyl tubes to light TPU tubes or going tubeless would be beneficial? Given your weight, riding style, and the terrain you typically ride, there are several improvements you could consider for your Specialized Epic Comp Carbon 2017 hardtail mountain bike. Let’s break it down: 1. Carbon Wheels Pros: Carbon wheels are lighter and stiffer than aluminum wheels, which can improve acceleration, climbing efficiency, and overall handling. They also tend to be more durable in the long run if you’re riding on rough terrain. Cons: Carbon wheels can be expensive, and while they are strong, they can be more susceptible to impact damage (e.g., hitting a rock at high speed) compared to aluminum. Given your weight (85 kg), you’d need to ensure the wheels are rated for your weight and riding style. Verdict: If you’re looking for marginal gains in performance and are willing to invest, carbon wheels could be beneficial, especially for climbing and rolling terrain. However, the benefits might not be dramatic given your current wheels (Newmen Evolution SL A30) are already relatively light at 1800 grams. 2. Tubeless Setup Pros: Going tubeless can reduce rolling resistance, improve traction, and allow you to run lower tire pressures for better comfort and grip on roots and sandy terrain. It also eliminates the risk of pinch flats, which is a plus if you’re riding over roots and rough terrain. Cons: There’s a bit of a learning curve with setting up and maintaining tubeless tires, and you’ll need to carry a tubeless repair kit in case of larger punctures. Verdict: Switching to a tubeless setup is highly recommended for your type of riding. It will improve comfort, traction, and potentially reduce the overall weight of your bike. This is likely one of the most cost-effective upgrades you can make. 3. Lightweight TPU Tubes Pros: TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) tubes are significantly lighter than standard butyl tubes, which can reduce rotational weight and improve acceleration. They also tend to hold air better than butyl tubes. Cons: TPU tubes are more expensive and can be more fragile than standard tubes, though they are still more robust than going tubeless. Verdict: If you’re not ready to go fully tubeless, switching to lightweight TPU tubes could be a good intermediate step. However, given the benefits of tubeless, it might be better to go straight to a tubeless setup. 4. Other Considerations Tires: Given your terrain (roots, sand, steep climbs), consider upgrading to tires with better grip and durability. Look for tires with a more aggressive tread pattern and sidewall protection. The right tire choice can make a big difference in traction and comfort. Suspension Setup: Ensure your fork is properly tuned for your weight and riding style. A well-tuned suspension can improve comfort and control, especially on rough terrain. Drivetrain: If your drivetrain is worn or outdated, consider upgrading to a more modern 1x drivetrain. This can simplify shifting and reduce weight. Saddle and Ergonomics: Comfort is key. Ensure your saddle, handlebars, and grips are optimized for your body. A professional bike fit might be worth considering if you haven’t had one recently. Summary of Recommendations: Tubeless Setup: This should be your first priority. It will improve traction, comfort, and reduce the risk of flats. Tires: Invest in high-quality tires suited to your terrain. Carbon Wheels: If you have the budget and want to optimize performance, carbon wheels could be a good upgrade, but they are not essential. TPU Tubes: Only consider these if you’re not ready to go tubeless, but tubeless is the better long-term solution. By focusing on these areas, you should see noticeable improvements in your ride quality, comfort, and performance.

Zrzuć łańcuch do środka poza korbę i poruszaj samą korbą. Wtedy czuć czy są to opory i dżwięki pochodzące z suportu czy nie.

Jak korba jest shit to i suport na 99% również. Więc raczej wymiana obu tych części jeśli już. Swego czasu bujałem się dwa razy z korbami SRAM z niższej półki z systemem GXP. Co miesiąc były w zasadzie do serwisu bo miały podłe uszczelnienia i piasek dostawał się do środka. Tę w MTB wymieniłem na SLX, z suportem XT czy XTR i 3 lata nie było żadnego problemu. Ale koszt ok. 500 zł.

Mam ten Vittoria ale nie używam ? Niestety potrzebuję zwykle dwa bidony. Natomiast jest zrobiony estetycznie i ma przegródki. Ten patent Cube wygląda z sensem.

Raz tak miałem w pierwszym rowerze MTB 30 lat temu. Widziałem to też u kolegi co miał Krossa z korbą Truvativ. W kółko się odkręcała. Jak coś ma w nazwie Prowheel to jest to zwykle śmieć z moich doświadczeń z tą marką. Natomiast skoro sklep z taką korbą sprzedaje rower, to musi to doprowadzić do porządku w ramach rękojmi. Nie ustępuj i napieprzaj, pisz pismo z reklamacją. Prędzej czy później wymienia na coś lepszego żebyś się odczepił ?

Spec do nowszych modeli Roubaix ma taki box: Ciekawe czy dałoby się przystosować do innych ram?

Ja do MTB mam taki mini box. Dużo do niego nie włożysz. Dętkę, łyżkę i nabój CO2 specowy z głowicą. Multitool ewentualnie jak mała dętka TPU. Natomiast wymaga 3 otworów na śrubki w ramie. Bardzo stabilny. Natomiast opasuję go rzepem bo nie mam zaufania do jego drzwiczek jak jest napchany :)

A pompkę chyba nawet ? Fajne w każdym razie. Ja muszę zmienić podsiodłówkę bo do myk-myka nie może być zaczepiana za sztycę.

W gravelu czy MTB to amortyzacja opony i amortyzatora znaczaco zmniejsza doznania z ramy. Zapewne masz racje ze w szosie doswiadczony zawodnik ma szanse wyczuc. Taki schowek to zajebisty bajer. +10 do lansu ?

Różnice między oznaczeniami karbonu wskazują głównie na użyte prepegi i żywice. 8R jest po prostu cięższy i gęstszy. Co za tym idzie dużo bardziej wytrzymały. Geo we wszystkich modelach karbonowych z danego rocznika chyba ta sama. Czy jakbyśmy wsiedli z zamkniętymi oczami na różne rodzaje karbonu Speca to byśmy odczuli różnicę? Nie wiem. Ale wątpię. Jak kiedyś znajdę czas to może wyciągnę jakieś dane z Tour Magazine.

Pojawia się tu pytanie jak się mają wyliczenia z Bicycle Rolling Resistance na ich bębnie i wyliczenia z Silverstone do tych realnych? Ostatnie testy opon szosowych pokazały spore różnice między nimi. Być może prędzej czy później ktoś opracuje jakieś badania w otwartym terenie. Ja w tym roku przeprowadzę swoje testy ale chyba "na oko". Chyba że pożyczę od któregoś z kolegów pedały z pomiarem mocy.

To najnowsza rama chyba. Do mojej, drugiej generacji, opony maks 42 mm

I tu do kompletu mamy amerykańskie spojrzenie na opony do gravela. Steve'a który to napisał czytuję od wielu lat. Jest to starszy amator i przykłada się do tego co pisze. Specjalizował się latami w pisaniu o kołach i oponach szosowych. Ostatnimi laty wszedł również w gravele. THE BEST GRAVEL TIRES - In The Know Cycling

No i tu mamy trzeci ciekawy test przeprowadzony przez niemiecki Gran Fondo Magazine w grudniu 2023. Ogólnie bardzo mi się podoba ich podejście. Prowadzą też bardzo ciekawy Enduro Magazine. Czasem lekkie skrzywienie w stronę niemieckich czy sponsorowanych produktów ale ogólnie bardzo ciekawe treści i pokazane z punku widzenia amatorów. Gravel tire group test – On the search for the best all-rounder | GRAN FONDO Cycling Magazine

Nie jest to napisane. Ale w przypadku Johnsona wyliczano z kalkulatora Silca jak się nie mylę. Zapewne na podstawie któregoś z kalkulatorów.

Test drugi. Również przeprowadzony w Sliverstone Sports Engineering Hub za pomocą symulatora Pedalling Efficency Rig. Test dostępny dla subskrybentów Cyclingnews: Your narrow gravel tyres are slowing you down in addition to making you uncomfortable, Cyclingnews lab test reveals | Cyclingnews Testowano 6 opon Vittoria Terreno Dry o różnej szerokości od 31c do 53c mm. Opony Pirelli Cinturato 40 mm, z oplotem 60 TPI i 120 TPI. Oraz opony Panaracer Gravelking X1 40 mm wersjach Standard, Plus i R-Line (Race). Test przeprowadzony na symulowanej nawierzchni asfaltowej. Na dwóch prędkościach 7 m/s (25,2 km/h) i 9 m/s (32,4 km/h). Opony zalano mlekiem Muc Off. Do testów wykorzystano rower Cube NuRoad C:62 SLT. Zmiana mieszanki i głębokości bieżnika: Zmiana szerokości: Typ (rodzaj) oplotu: Wnioski: Opony o większym TPI i miększym oplocie będą trochę szybsze, trochę bardziej komfortowe i trochę bardziej przyczepne kosztem żywotności i kosztem odporności na przebicia. Dlatego też kierując się intuicją, mając w domu dwie podobne opony, drutówkę Specialized Pathfinder Sport 42c, o oplocie 60 TPI, i Pathfinder Pro 38c, o oplocie 120 TPI, i widząc że Pro ma ciut miększą mieszankę oraz widząc różnicę w wadze 20 gramów, DO MOJEGO ZASTOSOWANIA, czyli rekreacyjnej jazdy ok. 20 km/h, głównie po nawierzchniach utwardzonych, po mieście, nad jeziorko i używania roweru jako zimowego zamiast szosy i może jakiegoś sporadycznego wypadu z kolegami raz na ruski rok, zostawiłem sobie tanie, szersze drutówki o większej szerokości. I widzę że słusznie zrobiłem. Alternatywną do Pathfinder ale bardzo niedocenianą oponą jest Specialized Trigger, o zbliżonym bieżniku. Miałem okazję jeździć na wersji Trigger Pro 42c, w rowerze mojego syna, u którego mają szerokość 39 mm (czyli trochę nie trzymają szerokości ale też obręcz jest 17 mm, zapewne są optymalizowane pod szerszą) i miałem wrażenie że jest przyczepniejsza w lasku i na luźnych szutrach. O tej oponie (i innych) będzie też w kolejnym wpisie. Według testów Gran Fondo różnica w oporach toczenia między tymi oponami jest na poziomie 1W czyli pomijalna.

Link do filmu: Tested: What is the Fastest Gravel Tire Size? The Answer Might Surprise You

Ostatnio przeprowadzono ciekawe testy opon gravelowych. Zacznijmy od testu, który przeprowadził Dylan Johnson. Zrobił dwa oddzielne testy. Testy były prowadzone na oponach Pirelli Cinturato. Jako ciekawostkę, wrzucił do testu też Race King 2,2 cala. Jeden test w tunelu aero żeby określić różnice w aerodynamice tej samej opony w zależności od jej szerokości. Drugi na bębnie wyposażonym we wkładkę symulującą najpierw asfalt a potem bruki. Test na prędkości 36 km/h bo jest to średnia prędkość zwycięzcy wyścigu Unbound Gravel po wyjątkowo chamskich szutrach i tłuczniach w USA. W pierwszej kolumnie straty aerodynamiczne. W drugiej straty wynikające z oporów toczenia do najszybszej opony. W trzeciej ich suma. W czwartej straty wynikające z oporów toczenia na bruku. Które o kawał wygrał Race King ? (co potwierdza moją koncepcję przygotowanych kół na lato do MTB w roli gravela na obręczach Fulcrum Red Metal 500, 23,5 mm) Piąta kolumna to suma oporów aero i toczenia. Moje wnioski: Na brukach i w cięższym terenie Race King bije opony gravelowe o kawał. Na asfalcie wielu twierdziło że szeroka opona gravelowa jest prawie tak samo szybka jak węższa. Okazało się to kompletną bzdurą. Pomiędzy 35 a 45 mm jest ok. 20W różnicy. Więc ktoś kto jeździ na gravelu głównie po asfalcie powinien wybrać oponę stosunkowo wąską ze stosunkowo niskimi oporami toczenia. Ktoś kto spędza czas w ciężkim terenie typu masochizm w lesie na korzeniach, powinien jeździć na rowerze MTB ? Albo na rowerze typu Monster Cross wyposażonym w opony MTB ? Na gładkich szutrach trzeba znaleźć złoty środek.

To podibna malutka pompke z Ali ma wlasnie moj kumpel. Camelback Podium Steel umozliwia picie w czasie jazdy bez stawania. Trzyma cieplo ze 4h. Jesli chodzi o pelny termos to mam Elite Deboyo co trzyma chyba ze 12h jak go zamknac termosowa przykrywka.

Dandy Horse przez lata na Bitex skladal. Ich podpytaj.